Posts tagged: tips

Mar 04 2010

How Much Do Mutual Funds Really Cost?

Q. How much does it cost to own a mutual fund?

A. More than you think.

Most investors know about a fund’s expense ratio, and use that attribute for comparing various funds before buying. But there are a host of hidden costs that are much more difficult to uncover for many mutual funds.

That’s what this article from the Wall Street Journal is about.

These hidden costs are related to the buying and selling of the individual securities held by the mutual fund, and they can make a fund 2-3 times more costly than the expense ratio alone would imply. That can be a pretty significant amount on a fund with an expense ration in the 1-2%.

While the expense ratio is an important consideration when pricing a fund, it simple doesn’t capture all the costs. The reason is that every mutual fund and its associated expenses is different. Then there’s the complex nature of the costs not covered by the expense ratio, specifically: brokerage commissions, bid-ask spreads, opportunity costs and market-impact costs.

And since the SEC has yet to mandate any unified form of measurement, the individual is left to try and scrutinize the often inscrutable. Even most experts arrive at drastically different estimates of the true cost of mutual funds.

So how do you find the true cost of mutual funds?

While it is difficult to get at the information required to determine the exact cost of a mutual fund, it turns out that the fund’s Annual Holdings Turnover ratio is a pretty good clue. While it is an imperfect measure, it is a standard measure. So, every fund must report this data the same way.

A fund’s annual turnover ratio is the percentage of assets that were replaced over the past year. So if the fund’s manager sold half its stocks and replaced them with an equal value in new stocks would have turnover of 50%. This is an imperfect measure though because in some cases, a fund can take in a lot of new money and not have to sell any assets to buy new ones. In such a case, the fund would incur additional buying costs that would not be accounted for in the expense


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Feb 17 2010

8 Ways to Rock Your Roth Conversion.

When the calendar passed from December to January, we bid a not so fond adieu to 2009 as well as the rollover income limitation associated with transitioning a traditional IRA to a Roth IRA. This is a good thing if  converting to a Roth IRA makes sense for you.girl with guitar

The Roth IRA is one of the best retirement and estate planning tools available, and with the recent change in restrictions and tax payment scheduling, 2010 is the year of the Roth. Quite simply, if the Roth makes sense for you then 2010 is likely the year to make it happen.

Here are 8 ways not to screw it up.

1. Just Do it.

As many experts look at the mounting federal deficits and growing number of states in danger of bankrupting themselves, they see no choice but for taxes to skyrocket. Maybe, and maybe not. I’m not going to get on a political riff on the subject of reckless spending and taxes. I just want you to be aware that the chances are slim that tax rates will stay at their current rates, which are historically low.

So, the question for long term investors is not whether to fund a Roth, but how to fund a Roth IRA. Regarding a rollover from a traditional IRA, your choices are essentially:

  1. Convert your IRA all at once.
  2. Convert your IRA in stages, or segments.

Either way, if you don’t at least start to convert now, and you wait to do it later it may cost you dearly in terms of taxes. If you’ve decided that a Roth isn’t for you, then… why are you reading this article? Besides, since January 2010, all income limitations have been removed.

2. Understand the tax consequences.

Deciding to wait and do a conversion after taxes rise is a costly mistake, but so is jumping into a conversion without understanding the full tax implications.

For example, if you’re in a 15% income tax bracket today and you rollover a $250,000 IRA you will not pay 15% in taxes. You will end up paying quite a bit more because that $250,000 distribution can be counted as income, according to Barry Picker (who recently served as the technical editor of “100+ Roth IRA Examples and Flowcharts,” by Robert Keebler) and that will most likely bump you into a higher income tax bracket.

3. Know the direction of your tax bracket.

If you are the sole breadwinner today, but your spouse is likely to re-enter the workforce in a year or two, then you’re better off converted at today’s lower tax rate. On the other hand, if your spouse is considering staying at home with the baby that’s due in a few months, you’re better off waiting until she leaves the workforce and your combined income drops. Likewise if you file solo, but you’re thinking of tacking a pay cut to switch careers. Time your conversion when your tax rate is likely to be on the low side.

4. Don’t pay taxes with money from your transaction.

Paying the taxes with money you have withheld from the rollover transaction is a bad idea for a number of reasons, including:

Every penny you take out of the transaction is less that goes to work for you in the Roth.

The amount withheld goes to the IRS as an advance payment, and also reduces the total conversion amount. Hence, the amount withheld is considered a distribution and not part of the conversion and can impart further tax liabilities. For example, if you have a $100,000 IRA that you convert to a Roth IRA and withhold $20,000 (20%) for taxes, then the $20,000 is treated as a distribution and may be taxable in itself.

If you need to reverse the conversion (called a re-characterization – more on that below), then you can only reverse the amount actually converted. In the example above, you could reverse the $80,000 conversion, but you’d be out that $20,000 permanently – and you would still owe taxes on the $20,000.

The amount withheld for taxes is also subject to the 10% early distribution penalty, unless you are 59 1/2 when the conversion occurred.

5. Be a good judge of re-characterization.

If not converting is a mistake, not paying attention to your Roth after you’ve converted is a huge mistake. Here’s why – and incidentally, here’s one of the greatest aspects of the Roth IRA conversion. It’s called “re-characterization” and here’s how it works.

Re-characterization allows you to undo a conversion if the market value falls below your conversion amount. It’s the mulligan of the Roth world. Here’s an example:

You have $100,000 in your traditional IRA when you convert it to a Roth IRA. After a while, the your Roth is worth only $50,000. If you left your Roth alone, you’d owe taxes on the full amount at the time of conversion – $100,000. But, if you re-characterize your Roth (i.e. undo the conversion, you get your $100,000 back in a traditional IRA and you would owe taxes on the $50,000 re-characterization amount.

Of course, you have to do it before the next tax filing deadline after your initial conversion and if there are fees involved, you might want to makes sure you’ve lost enough value to make it worth your trouble.

6. Divide and conquer.

Besides the income limitations being dropped, you also get an extension on when you have to pay the taxes if you convert in 2010. For this one year only, you can spread your payment of the taxes you owe on the amount converted over the 2011 and 2012 tax periods; meaning you don’t have to actually pay them until 2012 and 2013!

7. Catch the early bird special.

If you convert early in 2010 and the market resumes its bull run, as some analysts think may happen, then you would have more time to catch those tax-free gains, while splitting the payment of the taxes owed over two year’s.

8. Hedge your bets.

You can split your conversions up into multiple conversions, by asset class for example. That way if your stocks perform well, but your bonds tank, you can re-characterize your bond conversion back into a traditional IRA and lessen the tax hit. In fact, many experts recommend slicing your IRA up into as many Roth IRA accounts as possible to gain maximum control over your taxes. This is probably only beneficial for very large accounts however.


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Feb 08 2010

Mutual Fund Monday – Blogosphere Feb 2010 Edition.

It’s Mutual Fund Monday again, and I thought that I’d do something a little different this week. Rather than focus on a single fund or concept about funds, I’m focusing on a topic and sharing some of the interesting posts I’ve found on other blogs recently about that topic. The topic: ETFs.

ETFs, or exchange traded funds, first became available to investors in 1993 and have since evolved from being simple index trackers to being full blown portfolios or hedge funds of their own. There’s much mistaken knowledge about ETFs and much confusion. Hopefully these posts will help set you straight on ETFs. Even if you think you know all about them, there is probably a thing or two you didn’t know. ;-)

How to Choose ETFs for Your Portfolio from Oblivious Investor is a great place to start when beginning to add ETFs to your portfolio. He examines the usual suspects in regards to the important factors of an ETF, like expense ratio and which index it tracks; but he also covers some lesser known or often overlooked factors like the Bid/Ask Spread of the fund.

Not sure about ETFs, or too sure about them? Be sure to check out Ten Myths About ETF Investing from ETFdb before you make another decision about ETFs

Do you think Charles Schwab Might be the Best Choice for Passive Investors? Steadfast Finances does, and he explains why as well as why you should care. Very interesting post..

Lastly in our ETF posts this week is a post by Dividend Tree in which he reminds us of one of the single most important details about Investing in ETFs – Know What You are Investing In. Some of this is related I think to the 10 myths of ETFs from ETFdb above. Many investors think all ETFs are created the same and they invest in what the name suggests, but Dividend Tree shows that this is not always true.


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Feb 01 2010

Mutual Fund Monday – Tips For Mutual Fund Investment.

With thousands of mutual funds to choose from, picking the “right one” can be a daunting task. Most investors know not to fall for a short term hot streak – one or two years isn’t a long enough track record to show superior skill of the management team over sheer luck – but where should you start?

Step 1.  Figure out what you really need.

To be a successful investor, be it in mutual funds, hedge funds or whatever, you need to determine what your objectives really are and what asset allocation you’ll need to meet those objectives. And sorry to tell you this, but “to get rich” is not an objective. ;-)

Objective.

For your objective to be meaningful and achievable, it needs to be specific. If you can determine exact numbers, then you’re off to a great start. But even if the numbers are not exact or may even be unknowable, you can still use that as an objective.

For example, if your objective is to have $25,000 in 5 – 7 years for a new car, then you have a defined timeframe, and target amount. From that you can then figure out how much you can invest over that time  frame and see how much return on your money you’ll need to get there. (There are calculators for this kind of thing).

Even if your objective is a bit less knowable, say saving for retirement, you can use ballpark figures for determine the “best guess” for what you’ll need 15, 20, even 30 years out from today. The key is knowing that this is just a guess, based on current trends. In the case of retirement planning you reevaluate your goals and assumptions on a regular basis, every 5 -10 years for example.

The Takeaway. The point to take away from all of this is that your objective (amount and time frame) will be a key component in determining your risk level and asset allocation. You can (and should) invest more heavily in stocks for retirement which is decades away than for the objective that’s 5-7 years away.

Asset Allocation.

Put simply, an asset allocation is which types of investments you choose to put your money in, and in what proportions.

Different types, or classes of investments carry with them different levels of risk and average return. Bonds, for instance, are typically less risky than stocks, though that is a generalization since there are subclasses of stocks and bonds that can be very similar in terms of risk and reward.

Key points of concern are correlation (how much one investment be behaves like another), volatility, and risk.

The Takeaway. Some studies have shown that asset allocation alone is responsible for up to 90% of your total return, so be sure to study up on this stage and know what you’re doing.

Step 2. Picking mutual funds.

Since this article is about mutual funds, I will focus on that aspect of an asset allocation. But remember – if your investment goals are short term, then mutual funds may not be right for you.

Searching for a mutual fund.

If you have an idea of what type of fund you’re looking for, say a small cap stock fund, and you’d like to see what mutual funds fit that category, you can use Kiplinger’s Fund Finder. This tool allows you to select broad categories (like small cap stock funds) and narrow the results by a host of criteria, including:

  • 1,3 or 5 year return.
  • Morningstar rating.
  • Return in a down market (i.e. worst loss).
  • Expense ratio.
  • Turnover ratio.
  • Length of time the current management team has been in place.

And much more. It’s very handy for gathering a list of mutual funds to choose from, but you still need to do some comparison work, but more on that in a minute.

Gathering information on a specific fund.

Once you have a list of funds, or maybe you’re looking for details about a specific fund in your 401(k), you can use FINRA’s Fund Analyzer to get the specifics about a fund.

These results include average return of a given investment amount over a specified period of time, and the total expenses. It also provides a breakdown of the allocation within the fund, investment style of the fund (i.e. growth, vs value, etc..) the Morningstar rating and much more.

Some thoughts on past performance not guaranteeing future results…

By now I’m sure you’ve heard that familiar phrase of investment marketing: “Past performance is not a guarantee of future return”, or something similar. It’s usually uttered as a means of protecting themselves from costly liability in court situations, but it is also a significant thing to bear in mind when picking a fund.

The thing to remember is that just because a fund had a rip-roaring 3 years does not mean it’s going to continue to rip and roar its way up the charts for the next 3 years. Maybe it was a small cap stock fund and the economy has just come out of a recession. If that’s the case, then you can expect those returns to level off a bit as the economic cycle matures and investors seek blue chip companies over small cap.

But long term performance can be a good indicator of a fund’s quality. Look for good for funds with good performance over a 5-10 year period.

Some thoughts on volatility…

Volatility is simple a measure of how much the fund’s price jumps around; it’s a measure of how much of a roller coaster ride the fund is. The lower the volatility, the smoother the ride, but not necessarily the higher return. The thing to keep in mind with volatility is that it doesn’t matter how bumpy the ride is if you don’t need the money for another 20 years. In other words, volatility is less important for long term investments.

Some thoughts on Managers…

Things you’ll want to know about the fund’s manager include:

  • Does the manager admit mistakes?
  • Does the manager respect the investors?
  • Does the manager sound too greedy?
  • Does the manager know what he’s talking about?
  • Is the manager personally invested in the fund? (that’s a good thing)
  • Does the manager stick to his stated strategy?

One last thought about fees…

Not all funds are created equal, and one of the biggest defining characteristics of a fund may be its fees. All other things being equally, higher fee funds will perform worse than lower fee funds. But things are rarely equally and the thing you need to find out is whether the higher fee fund significantly outperforms its peers over an extended period. In other words, is it worth the extra money? If it’s just doing the same as an index fund, it’s not worth the money.

source


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Jan 26 2010

The 6 Biggest Investing Mistakes Warren Buffett Avoids – and You Should Too!

According to Burton G. Malkiel, a Princeton economics professor, and Charles D. Ellis, author of ‘Winning the Loser’s Game,’ Danger-keep awaythe only difference between them and Warren Buffet is that Warren Buffet hasn’t made these mistakes.

Of course, it’s more than that but since you and I (or Malkiel and Ellis for that matter) don’t have any chance of acquiring Buffet’s DNA, we’ll focus on this list – in the spirit of accepting what cannot be change, and having the courage to change the things that can be changed. ;-)

6 investing mistakes to avoid:

  • Overconfidence
  • Following the Herd
  • Timing the Market
  • Assuming More Control Than You Have
  • Paying Too Much in Fees
  • Trusting Stockbrokers

By way of proof of Buffet’s unique investment acumen and, more importantly, his ability to focus and remain true to his core investment philosophy, Malkiel and Ellis cite two prime cases when Buffet was tested by the markets and prevailing “common knowledge”.

Case number One was when Buffett avoided the dot com bust of 2000, simply because tech stocks fit neither his investment style, or his philosophy. But he held firm to his approach, even when it was called outdated by the rest of the investment world. As a result, his portfolio avoided much of the carnage that befell those more “enlightened” investors.

Case number two was when Buffett avoided mortgage-backed securities and derivatives in 2005-2006, because he found them too complex and “opaque”. As a result, he avoided the worst of the damage caused by the economic collapse that ensued.

In regards to the list above, you can see how Buffett’s sense of humility, and discipline have kept him from making many of the mistakes out lined in more detail in Malkiel and Ellis’ original article.

Burton G. Malkiel, Princeton economics professor and author of ‘A Random Walk Down Wall Street,’ and Charles D. Ellis, author of ‘Winning the Loser’s Game,’ have teamed up to write ‘The Elements of Investing.’


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Jan 25 2010

Mutual Fund Monday – How to Compare Funds.

The Mutual Fund Monday post this week is a highlight of a recent post from Kyle over at Amateur Asset Allocator .

Millions of Americans own mutual funds in their 401(k) plans, and many others own them in their IRA’s or even in a taxable, non-retirement account. But many people don’t have any idea of how to really compare the funds that are available to them. Here’s a hint – it goes beyond simply finding the highest return for a given time period (Ex: 1, 3,5 or ten years).

Kyle’s post is a great explanation of how to compare mutual funds, and their associated indexes. He explains how to compare apples to apples, and not apple to oranges (all mutual funds are not created equal!). He also explains the basics of knowing which index to compare a fund’s performance to, and why. And lastly, he explains how to compare two mutual funds – and more important, how not to.

So what are you waiting for? Head on over and give him a read. ;-)


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Jan 21 2010

3 Tips to Make Your 401(k) Work for You.

Morningstar has a terrific article (available to free members) titled Three Tips to Make Your 401(k) Work for You and I love it! Here’s a brief sample of why:

It’s surprising there aren’t many calls in the press to ditch the automobile. After all, think of all the dumb things people do with them. They drive much too quickly and sometimes after drinking lots of alcohol. They even drive while sending text messages, putting on makeup, and reading the newspaper. The consequences can be dire: More than 40,000 Americans die in auto-related deaths each year, with nearly 3 million suffering injuries of some kind.

Few things in the financial media annoy me more than the recent calls to 86 the 401(k) plan. And the above paragraph illustrates the absurdity of the move to end 401(k) plans quite nicely.

The article goes into greater detail about the push to eliminate the plan, but it also offers some real actions that investors can take to help get their 401(k) balances back on track, or to keep them on track so that they will function as intended – as a means to save for retirement, not get rich in the stock market (as too many seem to think).

Tip #1. Save More.

Yeah, I know, this sounds trite but it’s important not to simply gloss over it. My 401(k) balance dropped by about 30-35% from its 2008 high by the time the market bottomed in March of 2009 – and this was also at a time when my company canceled 401(k) matches! Things looked not so good, to say the least. But I didn’t get discouraged and start blaming the system. Partly because I have over 20 years left until I need that money, and partly because I know the stock market ebbs and flows. True, the market doesn’t usually drop by as much as it did by early 2009, but that also meant that there was near unprecedented opportunity for big returns in the coming months.

So, I looked at what I could do to change my situation and decided to increase my contributions. I knew that this would maximize my ability to buy more stock at those low levels, and also help offset my employers decision to break their promised benefit to me (i.e. contribution match).

I saved more. And the result was that my balance was over its pre-crash value in September, 2009.

Tip #2. Invest Wisely.

Most 401(k) plans are quite limited in the options open to investors, but that doesn’t keep them from screwing it up! For example, some employees “play it safe” and put all of their money in the money market equivalent. That’s stupid, unless you’re looking at retiring in the next 2 year, but even then you shouldn’t have all of your money in cash equivalents because you’re not going to suddenly withdraw all of your saving upon retirement. You need to keep some of it in stocks for long term growth so you don’t run pout of money in retirement.

So, basically, examine the options open to you in your plan, and diversify properly according your time away from retirement and other factors such as other assets available upon retirement – ex: home equity, pension plan, etc..

Tip #3. Be Flexible.

The best laid plans can often fall short due to factors beyond your control, so while it’s important to have a plan and stick to it, it’s also important to remain flexible and be ready to adapt to new realities as the economy (both U.S. and global) enter uncharted territory. This may mean working longer than you originally thought, or working part time jobs in retirement. Regardless, don’t get caught up in the way you think things ought to be and lose sight of the way things are.


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Jan 15 2010

Investing for free in 2010 with ING Direct!

Here’s a freebie for your Friday…

Open an IRA & invest for FREE in 2010!

ING Direct is offering a year’s worth of investing credits if you open an IRA with them before April 15, 2010.

Here are the details:

  • no-fee IRA
  • free Automatic Investment Plan (AIP) credits to use all year long, if you open your account before April 15, 2010.
  • ING IRA accounts offer more than 7,000 stocks and ETF’s
  • Automatic investment plans can be scheduled on a weekly or monthly basis
  • Online AIP investments only occur on Tuesdays
  • Real-time trade fees apply to all sales. (i.e. automatic buying is free with the credit all year long, but all sales with cost you)

An IRA is a great way to grow you retirement savings tax-deferred, and this promotional mean that even more of your contribution goes toward your investment, instead fees.

To take advantage of this ING Direct IRA promo, visit: www.sharebuilder.com/2010ira


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Jan 13 2010

6 Tips For the Beginning Investor.

Here’s a list of some investing insight I’ve learned over the years that I hope will help accelerate the beginning investor’s road to wealth.

1. Don’t go all in at once.

If you have a lump sum of money to invest and you are doing so when the market is going down, don’t just use it all at once to buy shares. Instead, split that lump sum into 3rds and buy at periodic intervals as the market goes down. The idea is that you simply cannot time the market effectively, so don’t bother.

Instead, you’re dollar cost averaging on the way down and spreading your money out like scatter shot instead of a single bullet. By doing so, you will improve the chances of hitting near the lows with at least some of your purchases.

2. Don’t be paralyzed by taxes.

Often times, individual investors hold on to a winning stock because they don’t want to pay the taxes on it, only to have waited too long and find they rode the stock back down to loser territory.

It’s an understandable course of action, after all when an activity is taxed, people do that activity less than when it is not taxed. But you have to get past that and realize that even at a 42% tax rate, you still have a 58% profit.

But let’s be clear – I’m not saying you could ignore taxes, only that you shouldn’t allow their implication to paralyze you into inaction.

Taxes should be an important part of your investment planning. For example, you want to be aware of the kinds of assets you hold so you don’t keep tax free, municipal bonds in a tax deferred account.

3. Broken stocks are OK, broken companies are not.

A stock’s price is a function of the quality and value of the underlying company, over the long term. This means that if you are looking to hold onto a stock for the long term, say 5-7 years, you should avoid stocks of broken companies and instead look for stocks of good quality companies that have suffered a temporary decline in stock price. Eventually the market will recognize the superior quality of the company and reward the stock price. Conversely, stocks of broken companies become broken stocks over time. An example of this might be Johnson & Johnson in the fall of 2008. The stock price suffered because the market as a whole crashed, not because the company was in poor shape. GM stock on the other hand suffered because the company was bankrupt and has no upside potential.

4. No one ever got rich panicking.

The key to success is simple to understand, difficult to practice – have a plan. You will never be a successful investor if you “just wing it”, “play by ear” or perform in a host of similar colloquial cliches.

Instead, you need to have a plan for when to buy and when to sell each and every stock you hold. Once you have your plan, use Stop Order and Limit Order to take the emotion out of your buying and selling.

5. Diversification is essential.

There have been a lot of pundits pointing out that diversification didn’t help in the 2008-2009 crash, but that while that is true, it’s not as important as it may at first seem .

Firstly, the 2008-2009 crash is not the norm and you’re far more likely to encounter situations where diversification would protect you than you are to experience another such crash.

Secondly, the only things safe in the 2008-2009 crash were cash and (maybe) commodities. If you want to prepare for a 2008-2009 style crash you should diversify some of your holdings into these asset types. But if you held most of your portfolio in them most of the time, you would lose in the long term.

6. Buy and hold is not “set it and forget it”.

Buy and hold investing is great for retirement savings, but even then you need to pay attention. Too many people mistake “Buy and Hold” for some similar sounding marketing gimmick from Ron Popiel.

“Set it and forget it” in the investing world is simply neglect, and it will catch up with you sooner or later.

Instead, you should periodically create a list of your holdings and rank them , that way you will have a course of action and always know where your holdings stand regarding buy, sell or hold.


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Dec 14 2009

Mutual Fund Monday – 5 Things To Watch When Choosing A Fund.

Picking a mutual fund can be a daunting task, but here are 5 things to look for that I hope will help make the process a little easier. This is part of my weekly Mutual Fund Monday post feature. If you find this interesting or helpful, please read more.

1. Fees.

Over the entire time you own a mutual fund, fees can sap returns without you even knowing it. Fees are also the single easiest thing for an investor to control. You can’t always choose the hottest performing fund, but you can choose the one with the lowest fees. Also, many fund companies don’t tie fees to performance, so your fund manager gets the same financial incentive whether he beats his benchmark or falls short.

Look for low cost index funds, or fund families like Vanguard, Dodge & Cox and American funds. Also, look for families that tie compensation to performance like Vanguard, Fidelity, Bridgeway and Janus.

2. Size.

Fees matter, and so does size when it comes to mutual funds. When a fund gets too large, the manager cannot buy and sell many assets without affecting the price of those assets by his actions. This makes it very difficult to perform well. Think of it as the difference between steering an 18-wheeler and a motorcycle. You want a fund that’s small enough to be nimble and not have to fight against its own momentum.

Look for fund families that don’t let their funds grow too big. Funds that aren’t afraid to close the doors to new investors when the fund reaches a certain asset size. Families like Dodge & Cox, Longleaf Partners fit into this category. Also watch out for funds that announce they will be closing well in advance as this often signifies that the management is looking to make a last minute asset grab, and does not have the best interest of the shareholders in mind.

3. Age.

Pay attention not only to how old the fund is, but also how old other funds form the same family are. For example, avoid companies that seem to launch funds targeting “what’s hot” at a given time – think tech stocks in 1999, or emerging markets in 2006.

Look for fund companies with a long history of concentrating on fundamentals and not simply trying to capitalize on fads. Companies like Longleaf, FPA, and Dodge & Cox fit this metric.

4. Taxes.

Some managers simply don’t care about your tax bill, and that’s fine if you hold those funds in a tax sheltered account like a 401(k) or IRA. But if it’s in a taxable account, it’s an unnecessary drag on your return.

Look for funds with low turn over rate, and a small difference between before and after tax returns.

5. Benchmark.

Lastly, you should pay attention to the benchmark of a fund. You’ll want to know what the fund is using as its benchmark as well as how it performs in relation to that benchmark. But most importantly, you should look at the absolute return on the money invested. For example, if the fund lost only 35% when its benchmark lost 38%, it’s really not getting you much, is it?

Look for how the fund performs is good markets and bad markets. Be sure you can handle that worst case scenario because you can rest assured that it will happen to you at some point in your investing life. Try and find funds that capture most of the upside of the market, while limiting the downside as much as possible. For example, a large cap stock fund that returns 75% of the S&P 500 during a bull market, and loses as much as 50% compared to the S&P 500 during a bear market would get you a smoother ride and potentially larger return, provided you are holding the fund through both periods.


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